The first thing a stranger needs to learn in Ho Chi Minh City is how to cross the road. Its a daunting challenge that requires a fine balance of nonchalance and acute awareness, of deliberate forward motion and hesitancy.

Facing down a phalanx of buzzing mopeds with riders expressionless behind helmets and masks is dizzying. It takes a while to discover that its a dance of give and take; that the moped riders will flow around you; that, in the end, the last thing to do is stop. Maybe thats the essence of Ho Chi Minh City itself.